Invertebrate Tips
 
Many  people believe that invertebrates are only for mini or micro-reef  tanks. Not so.  There are quite a few invertebrates that do well in non-reef  tanks. However, not  a lot of invertebrates should be attempted by  inexperienced saltwater fish  keepers. Below is a brief summary of the more  hardy invertebrates available to  aquarists. 
 
 
Invertebrates are very sensitive to water quality.  Signs of stress due to poor water quality  will usually be exhibited first by  invertebrates. Therefore, shrimps,  anemones and other invertebrates should never
be used to cycle a tank.  Moreover, you should never add an invertebrate to a  diseased tank or a tank
which does not have stable water quality parameters  (e.g., pH, temperature, etc.). 
    Other points to note. Shrimps need iodine to properly molt, as well  as calcium . If  you do not change water regularly (which you should), or if  you do not feed live  or frozen food frequently, then you may need to supplement your water with  iodine. Without proper levels of iodine, shrimps will not molt properly and will  most likely die. Also, copper kills  invertebrates at much lower concentrations  than fish. If you have ever used copper in your tank, DO NOT put  invertebrates into the  tank. You will never be able to adequately remove all the  copper such that  you can keep invertebrates alive and happy. Finally, crabs  usually outgrow  their shell sooner or later. Therefore, you will need to provide  a new  larger shell (they usually try a few out before sticking with one, so you  will probably need at least a couple). 
 
 

 

 Many  hobbyists desire to keep a mixed collection - with both fish and  invertebrates  in the same aquarium. While such a display  can certainly  be very beautiful  (especially with symbiotic species like Anemones and Clown Fish), there can be problems involved. The most effective  treatments for saltwater "ich" also kill  invertebrates. 
  Apparently, the cell structures are similar enough between parasites and  invertebrates that the reactions to chemicals are quite the same.  Since the  treatment/removal  time for "ich" medications is at least four weeks
(please  see "Treating Saltwater  Ich"treatment  information elsewhere  in these  pages), the  unfortunate hobbyist is often forced  to sacrifice  either the  invertebrates by moving them to another tank (if one is  available) or  the  fish by risking ineffective treatment. To  further  complicate  matters, salt  water invetebrates are suspected of being  "carriers" of "ich", and since a  suitable treatment has yet to be utilized, 
  suppliers cannot guarantee that  invertebrates are free of these  parasites.
The novice saltwater  hobbyist is advised to weigh the  risks of the mixed collection against the  obvious benefits  and to make  plans accordingly. Freshwater dips and quarantine  tanks can reduce the  chances of newly acquired specimens introducing  disease to  an  established aquarium. Low fish population density (few  fish  in a large tank  as in the currently popular "reef" type  aquariums) may  reduce epidemic  outbreaks  and allow fish to deal  with parasites in their  natural  manner. It is hoped that new advances
in disease  treatment and a better understanding of parasite  control will lead to a higher  degree of  success with mixed collections.

The information in this guide is based on aquarium literature,  personal
experience  and customer feedback. Exceptions are always  possible, but these
guidelines should give a basic understanding of  the normal behavior of aquarium specimens. Many factors,  including  tank size, water quality, available  hiding places, and  even the order  in which specimens are added, can affect  compatibility.

Acrylic Aquarium Care




Your acrylic aquarium will provide a life  time of enjoyment of your aquatic display. A fish tank built from acrylic is  attractive because acrylic's their unique properties of clarity, strength, and
versatility. However, acrylic aquariums do require care during maintenance and
cleaning. The following are some recommendations for maintaining your acrylic
aquarium to provide a life time of enjoyment.

Supporting an Acrylic Aquarium.
ALWAYS use a solid  surface to support your acrylic aquarium. Use of a perimeter support stand will  lead to sagging and undue pressure on the seams. Use of a perimeter stand will  void your Tenecor Warranty.


 Cleaners
   DO NOT use any product which contains  AMMONIA, ALCOHOL, or ABRASIVES, such as Windex, Comet, Ajax, or other commercial cleaners when cleaning an acrylic aquarium. Use of such cleaners will cause the  acrylic to permanently lose it's clarity. A soft cloth and water, or a polish
made specifically for acrylic, should be used for cleaning.


 DO NOT expose your acrylic fish tank to paints, varnishes,  turpentine, or their fumes. Exposure to these chemicals will cause crazing and  loss of clarity.


 For regular maintenance, Get Tanked recommends cleaners that are
specifically designed for acrylic, such as Novus® and Plexus®. Many other
cleaners contain chemicals which will penetrate the pores in acrylic and cause
damage which shows as fine lines or haziness. Plexus® aids in the removal of
fine scratches and abrasions and will actually help protect the acrylic from
accidental exposure to harmful chemicals.



Cleaning Aquariums With Bleach
 On occasions where a complete cleaning of the aquarium is required, such as a change from saltwater
to freshwater or after prolonged storage, the use of chlorine bleach can be very
effective. A half gallon of bleach mixed with 20 gallons of water or more is
great for sterilization and is perfectly safe for acrylic.



Polishing Cloths & Sponges
            Acrylic should always
be cleaned with a good quality soft cloth. Special polishing clothes are
available from Get Tanked and are the best guarantee of a lasting finish. As a
substitute, a soft cotton cloth or high grade paper towel can be used
occasionally. DO NOT use commercial grade paper towels or
newsprint.



DO NOT use coarse sponges or pads to clean acrylic aquariums. If you
do use a sponge or pad, make sure it's designed for use with acrylic
aquariums.



Removing Calcareous Algae and Diatoms
            Some aquarium
growths, such as calcareous algae and diatoms, are very hard and can be
difficult to remove with standard cleaning pads. Simply use a plastic card such
as a credit card, drivers license, or plastic putty knife to scrape growths from
the acrylic. Using the edge will transfer more pressure to the growth, reducing
the work, and because the card is still relatively soft it won't damage the
acrylic. Several scrapers designed specifically for use with acrylic aquariums
are now commercially available.

Saltwater Aquarium
Guide
 
With the outstanding assortment of beautiful saltwater fish to choose from, it is no
wonder that so many hobbyists dream of maintaining a marine aquarium. This guide
is intended to answer many of the questions a novice marine aquarist may have,
and to provide some basic guidelines for selecting and caring for saltwater fish
and invertebrates. In addition, we hope that every saltwater hobbyist will read
several good, current books on the subject. Please ask us for suggestions.

What's the difference between saltwater and freshwater?

Whereas  freshwater fish are found in rivers, streams, ponds and lakes, saltwater fish
are collected from oceans and seas. As such, their natural environment is quite
stable and they do not readily adapt to major changes in water chemistry or
temperature. In addition, since nearly all saltwater fish and invertebrates are
captured in the wild (many freshwater fish are either tank or pond raised),
there are greater risks associated with handling and shipping. The risks,
shipping and collecting costs, and supply-and-demand also make saltwater
specimens more expensive than their freshwater counterparts.
 
What equipment is needed?
 
Most modern aquarium equipment is designed to be functional in either salt or fresh
water, but it is important to select quality, reliable supplies. It hardly pays
to save six dollars on a heater or ten dollars on a filter system and risk the
loss of twenty or thirty dollar fish. Contrary to some opinions, undergravel
filters are not essential in saltwater aquariums. Many of our customers have had
success using the sort of equipment that we include in our "PRO" setups; deluxe
heaters, outside power filters and airstones. The only necessary additions to a
good freshwater setup are special gravel (crushed coral), sea salt mix, and a
hydrometer. 

Are saltwater fish hard to keep? 

Just as in freshwater, there are some species that are usually quite sturdy and some
that challenge even the experts. The "Marine Care and Compatibility Table"
portion of this guide is meant to help the hobbyist choose fish and
invertebrates appropriate for his level of expertise. In addition, the
individual specimen should be observed closely before purchase. Sometimes an
individual or group of even the most hardy variety will have been subjected to
just one too many changes, and will become weak or sickly or will refuse to eat.
We will try to help in choosing healthy specimens as much as possible.

What  size tank is needed?
 
Almost  any size aquarium can be used, but generally a larger tank will be easier to
keep chemically balanced and has a lot more options when it comes to fish
compatibility. On the other hand, assuming the household budget is a factor, it
is better to set up a medium-sized tank with good equipment than to attempt a
larger tank with inadequate equipment. Many of the most popular saltwater sizes
are in the 30 to 55 gallon range. 
 

Which fish should I get?
  It  is easy to make mistakes when  setting up  your first saltwater tank. Both for the sake of the fish and your  wallet. Start  with only a few hardy inexpensive fish. Most marine fish are  collected in the
wild rather than captive raised, so your mistakes impact  the world's oceans!

Since saltwater fish are usually more expensive than freshwater fish, you  have a great  stake in getting them home alive and keeping them alive for  the long term. You must realize that most fish you see in stores were
swimming around the vast  ocean a mere week ago. As such, the stress of  capture and transportation can
wreak havoc with the biological processes of  the animal. 
    The  most important thing when buying a fish is to not be  overcome by the buying  impulse. Before  buying any animal, you should ask `Can I keep it
happy'. Merely keeping the  fish or invertebrate alive doesn't mean it is happy.  Fifty goldfish may
live in a 10 gallon tank, but they certainly won't be happy  or healthy.  Buying a fish you know nothing about and then asking if you can keep  this  fish happy is a very bad practice. Also, as hard as it is to say this, 
  don't feel like you are doing a sick fish any favors by taking it home. If you  have the room and time to nurture the sick fish, then I suggest you help out the environment and care for the sick fish rather than letting it die. However, if  you are just going to place the fish into your main tank  because you don't have
the time or inclination to set a up a quarantine  tank, then don't bother. It  will only result in the death of the fish and  the lightening of your wallet. 
     Once you decide on a particular fish, don't be afraid to ask the store to hold it for you. A good store will always  hold a fish for you (don't patronize stores that won't!). Also, ask to see  the  fish eat. If the fish is healthy and eating, then it most likely is a  good specimen. Finally, check the fish closely for spots, irregular  patches, missing  scales, and wounds. Torn fins will usually heal and are  not much of a problem. 
 

Once you
get the fish home you should set the bag in the destination tank,  thus allowing  the temperature to equalize. After about a half hour or so,  add a 1/4 cup of  tank water to the bag. Repeat this process once every 15
minutes for an hour,  removing any water if the bag gets too full. Any water  you remove from the bag
should be disposed of. It will most likely contain  parasites and other bad  things. After you have the fish acclimated  to  your tank's water chemistry, there are a couple of things you can do. 
    You can place the fish directly into the main tank and hope for the best, you can  give  the fish a freshwater dip and then place it into the tank, or you  could place  the fish into a quarantine tank. The best  scenario is to  give the fish a freshwater dip and place it into a quarantine  tank. Keep the fish in the quarantine tank for 2 weeks and watch for signs of  disease.  If the fish gets sick, you can medicate the quarantine tank without  affecting the chemistry of the main tank. If you are going to quarantine the  fish, you should acclimate the fish to the quarantine tank's chemistry, not the  main tank. If you don't use a quarantine tank, then it is a very  good idea to give the fish a freshwater bath before  placing it into your  main tank. The freshwater bath will cause any parasites  attached onto the  fish to let go and remain in the freshwater (to die a lonely  death).  Otherwise, parasites left to their own will reproduce very rapidly in  captivity and usually infect all the fish in the tank. 
    To  give a marine  fish a freshwater dip, prepare a container of dechlorinated  freshwater with
a similar chemistry of the destination tank. That is, make sure the pH and  temperature are as close as possible to the destination tank (this is   critical!) . Remove the fish from the bag and place the fish into the container  for 3 to 5 minutes. Watch the fish closely for signs of stress. If the fish  stops moving or begins to float, remove it immediately and place it in the  destination tank (either the main or quarantine tank). In
placing the  fish into the freshwater bath, never pour the fish into the  container. Use a tupperware container or a net to capture the fish and place it  into the  dip. The store water should never be introduced to the  freshwater  bath, or any of your tanks. This water usually contains all sorts of  nasty  diseases and organisms. If you put  the fish into the main tank and it comes  down with an illness, it should be  removed to a quarantine tank  immediately. Do not risk spreading the  illness to the other fish  in the tank (although it may already be too late). 

 Both of these fish are delicate and can be difficult to keep. Many butterflies have specialized
diets which make them hard to maintain in captivity. Batfish are also other fish that should be avoided.

The information in this guide is based on aquarium literature,  personal experience  and customer feedback. Exceptions are always  possible, but these guidelines should give a basic understanding of  the normal behavior of aquarium  specimens. Many factors,  including  tank size, water quality, available  hiding places, and  even the order  in which specimens are added, can affect  compatibility.